From Clasp to Legacy: The Hidden Meaning and Value of Clasps in Antique Jewellery

Evaluart
Jul 7
2 min read

In the glittering world of antique jewellery, attention often gravitates towards the brilliance of a diamond or the subtle hue of a sapphire. Yet, discreet and frequently overlooked, the clasp is a treasure of its own — both materially and historically. At Evaluart, we believe that true expertise means examining what lies behind the sparkle. And few elements are as rich in meaning and connoisseurial value as the clasp of an antique jewel.

The Sentimental Power of the Clasp

Historically, the clasp was more than a functional mechanism. During the Georgian and Victorian eras, it was a vessel for love, grief, or secrecy. From serpent-shaped clasps symbolising eternity to mourning clasps holding a lock of hair, these closures carried private messages, like whispers of affection woven into gold.

A Key to Authentication and Dating

For jewellery historians and appraisers, clasps are essential tools. The shape, system, and craftsmanship of a clasp can help date a piece, verify its origin, or identify the maker. Whether it's an 18th-century hook clasp, a 1930s box clasp with safety, or a signature invisible clasp by Van Cleef & Arpels, every detail tells a story.

At Evaluart, our appraisers evaluate clasps to cross-reference stylistic clues with historical facts, ensuring accurate valuations and helping collectors distinguish authentic period jewels from remounted or altered pieces.

Aesthetics Reimagined

Today’s jewellery designers increasingly celebrate the clasp rather than hide it. Brands like Repossi, Boucheron, and Ana Khouri reimagine the clasp as a central visual element. Modular necklaces and convertible brooches are signs of a broader return to functional beauty — a value antique jewellery always embodied.

Investment Value: More Than Meets the Eye

In the world of antique jewellery collecting, an original clasp can significantly increase market value. Conversely, an altered or modern replacement may diminish a piece’s historical integrity and appeal. The clasp, in this light, becomes a true indicator of authenticity, with implications for investment potential and market trust.

Reviving a Forgotten Language

Collectors and investors alike are increasingly interested in stories behind the stones. Clasps — those silent, hidden mechanisms — are among the last frontiers in fine jewellery storytelling. Their form, material, and technique act as archaeological clues to the jewel’s biography.

At Evaluart, we champion these micro-histories. We bring them to light through careful examination, offering our clients not just a price, but a narrative, a connection, and a heritage.